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🙂 4/5 - A magnificent setting, good honest food, slightly high but
By 👻 @Mouette G., 03/11/2018 4:00 am
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A magnificent setting, good honest food, slightly high but mostly justified prices, marred by a couple false touches which are fair enough for Singapore. I was excited to finally make it to Pollen. A friend whose palate I trust enormously held it as the best in Singapore a few years ago yet the location made it hard to convince either friends or the other inhabitant of the home to trek there - and locals know Marina Bay Gardens well enough that the location is not that exotic anymore. Unfortunately it seems Atherton has left; fortunately his replacement used to be at the Claridges in London which back when I was there had a solid reputation. The little train from the taxi stand is an amusing start, although had the sun been out in force we may not have enjoyed it as much. The location was indeed very nice, not just the Dome but the indoor decoration, spacious, with enough space between tables to have some privacy, yet open and well lit (as you'd expect in a giant greenhouse). It is REALLY cold inside, but we were forewarned and brought woolly things. Felt just like London really. My first thought with every dish was how British that cooking was. Well sourced ingredients, prepared simply without artifices to hide their flavour, chosen to match each other. This is the Michelin/nouvelle cuisine equivalent of comfort food and to be honest a welcome sight, we're a bit tired of foam and smoke with no taste, the excitement should be on the fork. The tarte tatin is for some reason sold as a portion for two; well, I could have finished it myself, it was very well done. That's why it gets its own paragraph. Of course this, as well as the great bread, would not have been as noticeable in Europe with its plethora of French and French-trained chefs and bakers, but here, it is rare enough to warrant ignoring the banana ice cream and jelly option (whose gula melaka was the only trace of a nod to local tastes I could find). Now some minor criticisms: 55++ for a three course lunch is quite steep, however the location may explain it; the wine options were so boring we ignored the list; the cocktails (whose list is even more limited than before) seem unimaginative and using cheap bases which detract from the restaurant; the old list shown on a 2012 review has Hakushu 12yo, this one either Bacardi or Malibu rum. That would have been an easy 22++ they lost out on. I'd recommend the restaurant manager visit the Auld Alliance and chat with their manager about ideas for interesting stuff without breaking the bank. Finally, the lonely cheese board looked quite miserable with few options, none AOC/fermier, all quite boring, in other words some branches of Cold Storage have more choice and perhaps better quality. I only looked at it twice though, but again, an easy 10++ with a bit of thinking. If the Swissotel Equinox buffet can have free flow raw milk AOC 18 month aged cheese Pollen can afford to up their game. The chocolates at the end were not bad, however the "fennel" was absent from its namesake piece. All in all, this is a solid choice to take guests from abroad who will enjoy the surroundings. Not a bad option for a Sunday lunch either. If only they sorted out their booze...
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