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🙂 4/5 - Fading Memories
By 👻 @Thomas077, 04/10/2022 3:00 am
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I can't say we didn't enjoy the food, and we definitely had professional and friendly service (although this was also the case in other restaurants in Copenhagen). When we left the restaurant after the meal, we felt satisfied. After all, we'd eaten in what's currently the second best restaurant in the world, and since winners are no longer included in the list, it's perhaps not unlikely that Geranium will top the San Pellegrino 50 Best in 2022. In any case, the experience was pleasant. But the very next day, I began to have doubts. What struck me was that most of the dishes turned out to be quite forgettable and the whole experience didn't leave any longer lasting impressions. I've had the opportunity to dine in some famous restaurants, such as Osteria Francescana, El Celler de Can Rocca and many others of similar quality. Compared to those restaurants (as well as some that were never in the top 3 to my knowledge), the food here wasn't so spectacular. This may be due to the new menu, which is limited to vegetables and seafood, but the very idea of serving 21 small courses (even the part of the tasting menu corresponding to main courses was mostly bite-sized) has its drawbacks. It's hard to focus on such a sequence of dishes and appreciate the better ones when they're gone after 2 bites. Usually at these top restaurants, even if you don't love the whole tasting menu, there are courses that are so great, delicious or clever that you have them as a reference point for future experiences (even at a restaurant like Eleven Madison Park, which I did not love, one or two courses would qualify). None of the dishes we ate at Geranium are in the same league as, say, the 5 ages of parmesan at Osteria. It seems as if the restaurant considers, for example, the "flower" dish with yellow beetroot as a signature dish of this menu, but in fact the vegetable cut as a flower isn't original, and even if the dish teaches you that you can do a lot with beetroot, that doesn't necessarily mean that it was the tastiest thing in the world. If you think about the entire menu, you suddenly notice that almost all (if not all) dishes were served cold or at room temperature. When we did the usual tour of the kitchen, no cooking seemed to be taking place. So there were no temperature contrasts or other signs of great cooking technique. This must've made life a lot easier for the chefs, but is that what 3-star cooking is all about? Then there's the presentation - yes, most of the dishes look good, but if you think about why, it's because of 2-3 repeated tricks. The first, as you might expect, is the use of flowers arranged with tweezers, the second the cutting of vegetables to resemble petals, and the third a kind of 'lattice' pattern baked in intricate shapes and placed on top of the main ingredients. All are attractive at first glance, but ultimately quite ordinary and easy to achieve. Although for me the food is above all other factors, I'd be remiss if I didn't also mention the location and the decor. Again, neither is bad, but the offices of the FC Copenhagen football stadium and the area in which they're located aren't the most breathtaking and the interior, although bright and comfortable (the tables are large, the spacing between tables is excellent), is less impressive than in many other places. At a price approaching Parisian 3-star territory (but at least there portions are larger and many luxury ingredients are used), you shouldn't even talk about value for money. I chose the standard wine pairing, which was again OK, but not spectacular. At Celler de Can Rocca, I had the impression that the wines must've been made specifically for the courses served (or vice versa). Here, such a communion between wine and food wasn't even remotely in sight. Do I regret going? No, because I like fine dining and want to be able to form my own opinion. Would I recommend it to someone who's not interested in the latest foodie awards, lists, etc., but just wants to have a phenomenal meal, no matter what the cost? No, I'm afraid I wouldn't.
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