Unapologetically efficient - Dhamaka New York - Kaufe eine Reservierung
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🙂 4/5 - Unapologetically efficient
By 👻 @snic09, 10/16/2022 3:00 am
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The concept of going to a restaurant is pretty simple: you, the customer, exchange your hard-earned money for culinary pleasure. Dhamaka does an excellent job with the first part of this equation - they take lots and lots of your money - but they seem to have misinterpreted the second half to mean that customers are there for the pleasure of Dhamaka, not the other way 'round. What else could explain the long list of schoolmarmish rules: don't be late or we'll charge you; no, you may not sit down until your entire party is here even if two of them are in the building looking at Essex Market; you have exactly how much time the restaurant dictates you should take to enjoy your meal, and no longer; you may not order additional main courses after the table has placed its order; and you absolutely may not specify how spicy you would like your dinner. Some of these rules work very well in an institutional food service environment, such as a prison, but somehow when you're spending over $100 per person for dinner, it becomes less easy to appreciate how efficient the whole operation is. Although all this annoyed me, I was excited to try THE hot new Indian restaurant in town. And I have to say it was some of the best Indian food I've ever had in a restaurant. Highlights included the paneer (soft and pillowy), champaran meat (richly flavored mutton cooked with an entire head of garlic in the small pot), and eggplant (deep fried, crispy on the outside and incredibly creamy on the inside). The chapatis (rotis) were excellent although the paratha was dry and a bit burnt. We also enjoyed the unique cocktails and refreshing mango lassi (more mango juice than yogurt drink). Other dishes were good but not stellar, including the papdi chaat, ragda pattis, poplet, pork, dal, and giant prawn. Some of these are rarely if ever seen in Indian restaurants, and the restaurant is to be commended for introducing them to New York diners. And, as I wrote above, the restaurant is extremely efficient. Appetizers and drinks came out at a fast but reasonable pace, our water glasses were refilled attentively, and eventually a water bottle appeared on the table. Additional drink orders and an order of extra chapatis (those are allowed, even if extra main courses are not) were delivered in a couple of minutes. Service is definitely what you would expect from a top-notch restaurant. If there's something missing at Dhamaka, it's hard to put a finger on it - something like soul. You see, I was lucky enough to marry into an Indian family, so I've had home-cooked versions of many of these dishes (poplet, ragda pattis, papdi chaat, and many variations of dal, prawns and mutton curry). My wife and her mom and her aunties and our Indian friends are usually happy to consider the tastes of the people whom they are preparing food for - they will make a dish fire-hot to please an uncle who likes to burn his tongue eating raw chilis, while making the same dish much less hot not just for me (the white guy in the room), but for Indian family members and friends who prefer less heat so that they can taste the food. And that is precisely what is missing at Dhamaka: that sense that the person cooking for you cares enough about you to make sure you enjoy it. Instead of soliciting your preference and tailoring your food to meet it, they take the highly efficient approach that there is only one correct level of heat not just for all customers, but for all dishes. (I'd describe it as not hot enough for the chili-eating uncle but just a bit hotter than I would have liked.) Of course, no one should expect home cooked meals at a restaurant, but still I'd have prefered it if Dhamaka had a little more flexibility and (when it comes to heat level) a lot more variety, even if it means a little less efficiency.
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