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😍 5/5 - There is something unique in today's French culinary scene
By 👻 @Alex P., 11/12/2022 3:00 am
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There is something unique in today's French culinary scene compared to the rest of the world. While, one might argue that majority of the Western world's cooking is derived from France also, which would certainly be a valid assertion, today's top restaurants in France are able to embrace something different. That something is the depth of tradition, the many generations of cooks that have had centuries to pass down techniques to their offspring and manage to keep that offspring in the same line of work. That depth of inherited knowledge results in some spectacular preparations that evolve gradually, but in a much more meticulous way than they do in the New World. In result, this passes down minor but significant improvements, thus pushing classicism over modernity through the abyss of time.And here we come to Apicius, a mansion housed restaurant that embodies this flow in an exemplary fashion. It recently became helmed by Mathieu Pacaud, the son of a the son of Bernard Pacaud of the Michelin three-star L'Ambroisie. The moment of transition from chef Jean-Pierre Vigato has passed, but the restaurant is still a perfect example of what French food is. Some could argue that it is overly traditional in both flavor and presentation for the price point where it sits. That would perhaps be true, but then we have to ask ourselves: is that really such a bad thing when the meal is executed so perfectly? From tender flavorful veal to the best artichoke I have ever tried, Apicius was a perfect place for a visitor to Paris wanting to try a highly focused execution of local cuisine. The turbot with clams and foam is a spectacular dish, balanced and succulent. Clams tartare simply, beautifully presented and also did not disappoint. Service was as expected, attentive to every detail and not overly formal or stuffy.Sitting in a group of four in a private room, it was amazing to have the freedom to be quite a bit louder in conversation and enjoy a comforting view of the courtyard within this 18th century mansion. There was one dish that needs to go and it is the chickpea macaroon which was was overly sweet and loaded with a terrible synthetic like flavor reminiscent of molten plastic. But, the chocolate soufflé easily cancelled out that tiny macaroon, being without a doubt the most delicate and balanced preparation I have tried anywhere. Apicius is a wonderful place and manages to preserve the charm of perfectly executed French kitchen, thus demonstrating that a pricey tasting menu does not have to be an experiment into the new and that there is reserved a place in this world for luxurious dining that admires the cycle of passed knowledge and complex technique.
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