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🤮 1/5 - I never thought I'd be leaving Alinea a one star review but
By 👻 @Ka R., 03/13/2023 3:00 am
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I never thought I'd be leaving Alinea a one star review but here we go...Been there twice. Once in the Salon and once in the Gallery. These visits were pre-Covid. As a vegan, I was very impressed with their vegan accommodations at the time. On both occasions we were able to have the full Alinea experience and every course of our entire meal was vegan. I loved it. I would keep going back. Alinea used to be my favorite restaurant. I loved how creative and innovative all the courses were--especially since they were vegan. When a chef makes the bold and brave choice to offer not only a vegan menu item but an entire vegan tasting menu, and execute perfectly on that--it's impressive, to say the least. After dining there twice I could see that the three Michelin Stars were well-earned. Would have given it 5 stars. But something BIG changed...Unfortunately, after Covid, it seems Chef Achatz doesn't want to make an effort to accommodate vegans anymore. Alinea used to have a "Flora" and a "Fauna" side to their menu. The "Flora" side was vegan and the "Fauna" side was not. I thought that was such a creative take, being able to serve non-vegan food for the general population as well as vegan food that would be suitable for not only vegans, but also vegetarians, people with lactose intolerance and other food allergies, etc. Post-Covid, while they can make a meal meat-free, they no longer have menu items which don't contain eggs or dairy. They no longer have a side of the menu designed to accommodate people with special diets. This isn't a matter of "needing" to add eggs and dairy because the flavor would suffer without them; this was simply a choice of laziness as far as I can tell. Achatz can and has created literally dozens of delicious and satisfying vegan menu items in the past.For a restaurant known for pushing the boundaries of molecular gastronomy, one would think that vegan cuisine would be seen as a unique opportunity to create all different kinds of tastes and textures that either mimic foods we already know and love or go completely counter to what we ever knew was possible. Many chefs around the world are seeing vegan cuisine as the newest frontier, where new ideas, ingredients, and boundaries are constantly being pushed forward in the most unique and exciting food movement of the last century. There's a reason it just keeps gaining popularity, even among non-vegans. Perhaps Achatz is resting on his laurels at best, or at worst, either suffering from a creative roadblock, exhaustion, or just throwing vegans and those with food allergies under the bus because we don't matter to him for whatever reason. Unfortunately because of his choice to stop accommodating vegans, Alinea is now just like every other fine dining restaurant that views special diets as an annoyance rather than as an opportunity to create and innovate. That's a red flag in my opinion and is quite disappointing considering what Alinea used to represent but has slowly been losing grip of in recent years in the Chicago fine dining scene.While not yet having earned a Michelin Star, Brass Heart has a multi-course vegan tasting menu that is quite good and is a great option for vegans and others on special diets who are now being turned away by Alinea. It's apparent that a lot of thought is put into the vegan tasting menu; it's not an afterthought like in many other restaurants.Boka (one Michelin Star) also has a vegan tasting menu but it's sub-par so I wouldn't recommend.Alinea was the top of the list of these restaurants for me for a long time, but now they're just another snobby restaurant that looks down on diners with special diets and has clearly lost focus of what they used to be known for and what ultimately makes food fun: novelty, challenge, and innovation. Such a shame.
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